Day #7: Ain’t no party like a Mongol party

It’s one week into our trip and we are leaving the heat and sweaty streets of Beijing and Datong for the blustery grasslands of Inner Mongolia. The trains are usually quite crowded, but so far everyone we’ve met on the trains has been friendly and helpful!

Samantha studying the Kircher book on the train to Hohhot.
Samantha studying the Kircher book on the train to Hohhot.

Finding a place to stay in the grasslands is difficult without an agency or hostel with local connections, but with some help from locals in Hohhot (the capital of Inner Mongolia) we found a local bus out into the plains.

The grasslands are incredibly beautiful, and so vast that they are difficult to capture on camera!

Grass until the horizon in all directions
Grass until the horizon in all directions

Kircher calls the Mongolians ‘Tartars’ in China Illustrata. At the time that the Jesuits were travelling, there were many nomadic tribes in the ‘Mongolian plateau’ as Kircher calls it, and thus, ‘Tartars’ became the general term for nomadic peoples in Asia.

Kircher describes the Yurt camps as ‘mobile cities,’ although today the yurt camps are more permanent. He also suggests that the ‘Tartars’ stole and attacked passing travellers and shows the elaborate clothing of priests and ordinary people.

The dress of a priest, in the background a Yurt settlement can be seen.
The dress of a Tartar woman, in the background a Yurt settlement can be seen.
An image depicting the usual dress and 'a demonic boy named Phut.' Kircher explains how a boy would be given weapons and made to kill anyone he meets, bringing honour blessings to the families of those he kills.
An image depicting the usual dress and ‘a demonic boy named Phut.’ Kircher explains how a boy would be given weapons and made to kill anyone he meets, bringing honour blessings to the families of those he kills.

Our experiences with the Mongolian people were (thankfully) quite different to that of d’Orville and Grueber! Everyone we met was extremely kind and welcoming, even inviting us to a local bonfire party.

One of the families we met outside one of their Yurts.
One of the families we met outside one of their Yurts, modern Mongolian clothing looks a lot more comfortable than that of the 1600s!
Some locals barbecuing meat in the evening
Some locals barbecuing meat in the evening

The bonfire party was amazing, everyone from the ages of seven to seventy was there dancing and having fun, although some of the teenagers preferred to watch from the sidelines, apparently a universal teenage trait.

We were convinced to dance and are very glad to be travelling in different times than Grueber and d’Orville!

 

 

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Denise Villerius
15 August 2016 13:35

Good to hear from you! Enjoy the trip